Bermuda Getaway

National Museum of Bermuda grounds

National Museum of Bermuda grounds

This year's summer getaway was a quick stop from the East coast to the pristine island of Bermuda.  Home to one of the world's most famous beaches, Horseshoe Bay, I had never been to this lovely little island.  Nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, Bermuda is a short plane ride (less than 2 hours) from most eastern hubs such as Boston, New York, and DC.  With such a short commute time, I understand why people flock to this tropical enclave, especially for a quick weekend away.  It's easy and in less time than getting stuck in rush hour traffic, you are in another world filled with palm trees and pristine beaches.  

A word of warning-it's an expensive getaway. The question:  "Is it worth it?" 

I suppose that all depends on what you are looking for.  

Bermuda was originally discovered in 1503, so it has some history.  It was settled in 1609 by the English who had established the Jamestown colony in Virginia. When their ship ran ashore after it was steered into a surrounding reef in the aftermath of a hurricane, it landed in Bermuda. In 1684 Bermuda became an English Crown Colony.  Unlike other islands, Bermuda has a sense of formality and elegance to it, no doubt due to its British heritage.  As it was my first time visiting the island, I didn't have any preconceived notions of what I would encounter.  

These were the impressions I was left with:

1) Gorgeous beaches. The water surrounding the island seemed to be in pristine condition and crystal clear no matter where on the island you went.  Driving around, it was noticeable that even in areas where boats were docked, you could see straight to the bottom.  The aqua blue waters were as warm as bathwater and were constantly enticing you to jump in. The sand was ultra fine and never felt hot beneath your feet due to the fact that it consists of calcium carbonate shells, not volcanic rock.  Though famous for it's pink sand beaches, I can't say that any beach we went to was seriously pink, not even Horseshoe Bay.  Nevertheless, they were beautiful.

IMG_5431.jpg

2) It's safe - both on and off the road.  Crime on Bermuda is quite low.  On the whole, the local people were friendly and helpful. There are only three main roads on the island and the speed limit is about 35-40mph, making getting around tedious, but pretty organized and civil for both drivers and pedestrians. (You do, though, have to be mindful that being a British colony, they drive on the left.) 

3) It's clean.  I don't just mean clean, I mean really clean.  The streets are devoid of garbage, the beaches aren't riddled with litter or cigarette butts (actually we didn't see a single person smoking the whole time we were there) and the public restrooms were even cleaner than those at the local mall.  

4) Its expensive.  All around, hotel rooms are outrageously expensive.  We stayed at the Fairmont Southampton and were not impressed.  The hotel was lovely.  Rooms were clean and spacious, the grounds were well kept and the property was well situated, right next to Horseshoe Bay. The hotel also had its own private beach for hotel guests only, but there was nothing spectacular that warranted its price tag.  Hotel service was mediocre and staff were not as hospitable as they should be when guests are paying well over $400 a night.  

5) Dining and food was good, but not spectacular. Staying there for a week, we dined out a lot and tried various restaurants. Overall, the food was over priced and lacked any distinct flavor.  Being on an island I expected more fresh fruits, vegetables and fish.  Since it is not a Caribbean Island, it did not seem to have an abundance of tropical fruits like you would find on islands further south, and most of the fish offered was sea bass, salmon and wahoo (which I found too chewy and dense for my tastes).  Even the famed Waterlot Inn had food that was less than stellar.  All around, we found the service to be consistently so-so.  With a 17% tip automatically affixed to every bill, there was no incentive for wait staff to be overly attentive.  Waiting 20 minutes for a requested drink menu is not acceptable at a dining establishment where dinner is over $80 a person in my book.  

6) Golf.  If that's your thing, there are a lot of world class golf courses all over the island.

7) Excursions and Things to Do.  For a small island, Bermuda offered several activities beyond just laying on the beach.  The island has historical museums and  forts you can explore as well as caves, which house formations that are over a million years old.  There are several tours and cruises available all over the island, and a must-do activity that is great for kids and adults alike is Dolphin Quest, where you can swim and interact up close with (and even kiss) one of natures sweetest mammals. 

Crystal Caves

Crystal Caves

8) Water sports.  As any island, there are many water sports to choose from such as snorkelling, jet skiing, sailing and scuba diving.  There are PADI dive tours readily available to explore the various reefs and shipwrecks around the island.  

8) Shopping is limited.  There isn't much shopping in Hamilton, that honestly, you can't find in any other major city, with the exception of maybe their pink sand jewelry.  The Dockyard near the National Museum offers some more local items and shops such as Dockyard Glassworks and the Bermuda Craft market where you can find Bermudian produced items including jewelry, books, and decorative pieces for the home. 

On the ferry leaving the Dockyard

On the ferry leaving the Dockyard

Overall, am I glad I went? - Absolutely! The weather was great, the scenery was beautiful and honestly, I could have used another week just lying on their pristine beaches.  

Would I go back? Maybe.  I would probably be more open to go for a quick weekend getaway than an actual longer vacation stay. I loved that it was safe and clean and the beaches were top notch, but  I didn't find the island to have anything that I cannot find elsewhere for less, especially if I was willing to travel a bit longer.  Unlike the Caribbean or Europe, the island doesn't really have a distinctive flare to it.  I can find beaches just as clean and beautiful in other parts of the world that offer more interesting food, a more definitive culture and better shopping to boot. Besides, I am all for exploring new places before I revisit old ones.  However I do have to say...

Bermuda sunsets ROCK!!

Bermuda Sunset from The Ocean Club

Bermuda Sunset from The Ocean Club